88.7% of private parks offer full hookups. Here is what every hookup type means, how it affects price, and what to confirm with a park before you book.
Staying a month or longer? Post one request →Last updated: September 2026 · By Renato B., RVSpot founder
The term "RV hookups" covers everything that connects your RV to a campground's infrastructure: electric service, water, and sewer. Understanding hookup types before you book a site is the difference between arriving with exactly what you need and arriving somewhere that cannot power your air conditioner or forces you to drive to a dump station every two days. This guide explains every hookup type and backs it with real inventory data from 9,309 active private RV parks.
RV hookups are the utility connections at a campsite pedestal that let your RV run from the park's infrastructure rather than its own onboard systems. A fully hooked-up RV draws power from the grid, water from the park's supply, and drains waste into the park's sewer — just like a house connected to municipal utilities.
Not every site offers all three. Sites are classified by which connections they include: full hookup (all three), partial hookup (water and electric only), electric only, or no hookup (dry camping / primitive).
Of 9,309 active private RV parks in the RVSpot directory:
| Hookup Feature | Parks Listing It | % of Active Parks |
|---|---|---|
| Full hookup (W/E/S) | 8,261 | 88.7% |
| 50-amp electric | 8,090 | 86.9% |
| 30-amp electric | 8,084 | 86.8% |
| Pull-through sites | 2,418 | 26.0% |
Source: RVSpot directory, 9,309 active private parks, counted October 2026. Government parks excluded.
The takeaway: full hookups are the norm at private RV parks (88.7% of them). Pull-through sites are far less common (26.0%) — so if you need one, ask the park before booking.
30-amp service delivers one 120V leg at 30 amps — 3,600 watts total. That covers one air conditioner, your refrigerator, and standard interior loads, but not everything simultaneously. Travel trailers under 30 ft, older Class C motorhomes, and most pop-ups and truck campers are wired for 30-amp.
50-amp service delivers two 120V legs at 50 amps each — 12,000 watts total. That is more than enough to run two rooftop ACs, an electric water heater, the microwave, and everything else at the same time. Fifth wheels, Class A coaches, larger Class C motorhomes, and most new RVs are 50-amp rigs.
The physical plugs are different and not interchangeable without an adapter. A 50-to-30-amp dogbone adapter ($20–$30) lets a 50-amp rig plug into a 30-amp site, with reduced total power available. A 30-to-50-amp adapter lets a 30-amp rig plug into a 50-amp site with no limitation — it simply draws what it needs.
A water hookup means there is a spigot at your site pedestal that you connect to your RV's city water inlet with a drinking-water-safe hose. Once connected, your RV plumbing runs continuously from the park's supply — no need to manage your fresh water tank level or turn the pump on and off.
Always use a water pressure regulator between the spigot and your RV. Campground spigot pressure frequently exceeds 80 PSI; most RV plumbing systems are rated for 40–55 PSI. A regulator ($10–$20) prevents blown fittings. Always use a white or blue drinking-water-safe hose, not a standard garden hose.
A sewer hookup means there is a sewer inlet at your site where you connect your drain hose from the RV's black and gray tank dump outlets. With a sewer connection you can leave your drain open (gray tank only) or dump when ready — without driving to a dump station.
The critical rule with sewer hookups: keep your black tank valve closed until you are ready to dump. An open black valve causes solids to accumulate without enough water to flush them — the infamous "poop pyramid." Your gray tank can drain continuously since it holds only soapy water.
Full hookup (W/E/S / FHU): All three connections at the site. The default for full-timers and stays of a week or more. No dump runs, no tank monitoring anxiety, no generator noise.
Water and electric (W/E / partial): Water and power at the site; no sewer. You manage your holding tanks and dump when they fill. Works well for weekend trips — most RVs have enough tank capacity for 2–4 days.
Electric only: Power pedestal only. You supply your own water and dump at a dump station. Common at state parks and some older private campgrounds. Typically the least expensive hookup tier.
Dry camping / primitive / boondocking: No hookups. You run on battery bank and/or generator, use your onboard fresh tank, and dump at a dump station when tanks fill. Zero hookup cost — often free on BLM and National Forest land. Requires a well-equipped electrical system for stays longer than a day or two.
Full hookup sites cost more than partial or dry sites at the same park, typically $5–$15/night more. The median nightly rate at full-hookup private parks in our directory is $50/night. Budget campgrounds run $35–$45; coastal resort parks charge $80–$150.
For a deeper breakdown by state and stay type, see the RV cost guide →
Search 9,309 private parks by state.
Search by state, then narrow the results to parks with full hookups. Amp service (30 or 50), maximum rig length and pull-through sites vary site by site within a park, so confirm those with the park directly before you book.